September 6, 2005
Great Moments in Journalism #2
Kawashima's younger brother was dressed in kitchen whites, stirring soy milk in a metal vat. It was warm but hadn't been curdled yet, and he offered me some from the ladle. Its taste was slightly beany, yet elemental, with an ineffable sweetness, as if it came not from a plant but from a breast.
From Judith Thurman's "Night Kitchens," The New Yorker, September 5, 2005.